CYCLING

[Invisibilis]

Well, that's a pretty cold thought on my marriage! LOL! She may soon get into riding... I'm working on it. But what she doesn't understand is bike parts aren't car parts. Tires are only good for maybe 2500 to 3000 miles. Chains, cassettes and brake pads about the same. Cables a bit longer. My derailers and chain ring are all about shot, but they've had a good run. I'd have to check my maitenence records, but they all have never been replaced and it's been at least 6 years (which is at least 30,000 miles).

Once the chain stretches to a point (there are chain stretch gauges) it needs to be replaced. If you don't, then the stretched chain starts wearing into the gears, especially the cassettes. You'll know when the chain and cassettes are worn _ the chain jumps over the cassette teeth when power is applied. The trouble is, you may replace a chain and find that it now jumps the cassette teeth. Then the cassette needs replacing too. It gets a bit expensive if one does not check it regularly.

Personally, I clean my bike after most rides. I clean the chain and gears with a rag (de-greaser is the worst thing to use on chain and gears), re-lube the chain and wipe off lube with a rag (stops grit sticking to chain). Then I check tires for glass etc with a dental probe. Pump tires up, and recharge lights. If my ride is less than 40 kms, I usually do the routine after my next ride. Most guys don't do what I do; and it is these guys who get most of the flat tires (which I end up repairing, because they are so slow), and most of the visits to bike shops.

I feel much more confident starting a ride knowing that the bike is in tiptop condition, ready to push it to its limits.

 

[Invisibilis]

It uses GPS so it keeps records of your rides in many ways....

I heard a story many years ago when Strava was introduced. The local lads were competing to see who could go up Devils Elbow (local hill) the fastest. Then one day, the record got really smashed. Nobody could believe it, especially when you know the rider. The riders explanation was that you forgot to turn off Strava when he took his bike up Devils Elbow in his car.
I do not know about today's Strava, but at that time, you could not delete it.

 

[FHII]

Once the chain stretches to a point (there are chain stretch gauges) it needs to be replaced. If you don't, then the stretched chain starts wearing into the gears, especially the cassettes. You'll know when the chain and cassettes are worn _ the chain jumps over the cassette teeth when power is applied. The trouble is, you may replace a chain and find that it now jumps the cassette teeth. Then the cassette needs replacing too. It gets a bit expensive if one does not check it regularly.

Personally, I clean my bike after most rides. I clean the chain and gears with a rag (de-greaser is the worst thing to use on chain and gears), re-lube the chain and wipe off lube with a rag (stops grit sticking to chain). Then I check tires for glass etc with a dental probe. Pump tires up, and recharge lights. If my ride is less than 40 kms, I usually do the routine after my next ride. Most guys don't do what I do; and it is these guys who get most of the flat tires (which I end up repairing, because they are so slow), and most of the visits to bike shops.

I feel much more confident starting a ride knowing that the bike is in tiptop condition, ready to push it to its limits.

Yea, that's the way to do it. Wish I could, but I commute to two jobs. That's a total of 16 rides a week. Doesn't leave a lot of time for such maitenence, though I'd love to fuss over my bike that much.bottom line is I push the chain to the limits and just ask for a new cassette every time I get a new chain. Not the right way, but that's what I do.

You mention degreaser is bad... That has me curious because I use a mild environmental friendly one suggested by my mechanic at the bike shop. It's more of a cleaner I suppose... I have been using a different one... Some foaming stuff, and I am not pleased.

When I do clean, a mild dish soap is used after letting the other stuff work for 5 minutes.

Thoughts?

 

[FHII]

I heard a story many years ago when Strava was introduced. The local lads were competing to see who could go up Devils Elbow (local hill) the fastest. Then one day, the record got really smashed. Nobody could believe it, especially when you know the rider. The riders explanation was that you forgot to turn off Strava when he took his bike up Devils Elbow in his car.
I do not know about today's Strava, but at that time, you could not delete it.

I'd have to look into it, but that may a story that became legendary! According to the accounts, a pro beat a local in a few segments down in Australia. It started a big Twitter war or something. The fella that got beat was seriously upset!

I've only read a little about it. I don't know all the details. So, I won't cast Judgment. A lot of pros are on Strava, so folks like you and I are going to be buried by them. That's life! Cycling fills my time and occupies me for the time being. It's cool, but I am here in Earth for something else. I wouldn't worry about a pro beating me in cycling.

 

[mjrhealth]

I am at a stage where I am getting stronger and muscular on the legs. My body fat is decreasing, but my weight is the same.
Some say that muscle weighs more than fat.

well it will do. Once that fat goes the weight dont change much, You diet to hard you loose muscle mass, as your body runs out of fat to loose.

 

[mjrhealth]

I'm training for a Sprint triathlon in July, so I've started swimming (started back in August after not doing any swimming since 1990!). Running is probably the greatest thing that helps... I heard Lance Armstrong endorse that notion as well.

Thinking of focusing less on running and more on cycling and swimming. I am skinny, but I'm also 50. The problem is I'm trying to train like I'm 25 or 30. Legs are tightening up and my knee is feeling some pain. I got a 10 mile race in June, but my crit is in May.

Feel like I should focus on the crit first.

Im 57. Started swimming 3 years ago when I moved here as its an indoor pool and not so far. Set my self simple goal 20 laps of 25 meter pool, freestyle and breast stroke, took me 2 hrs first time. Now i can swim 1k non stop 1500 is my norm occasional y push for 2, im sure i could do 3 but gets boring counting laps when pool 50 meters. thats 20 laps per K. As for running a chap was at the pool a few weeks ago, told him he should get a bike because he wanted to run, the chap in adjacent lane told him not to run after 20 years of it his knees and ankles are stuffed, Its not called ground pounding for nothing, I used to run when I was younger but my right knee no good, Didnt run often swimming much more beneficial, not hard on the body like running.

 

[Invisibilis]

Yea, that's the way to do it. Wish I could, but I commute to two jobs. That's a total of 16 rides a week. Doesn't leave a lot of time for such maitenence, though I'd love to fuss over my bike that much.bottom line is I push the chain to the limits and just ask for a new cassette every time I get a new chain. Not the right way, but that's what I do.

You mention degreaser is bad... That has me curious because I use a mild environmental friendly one suggested by my mechanic at the bike shop. It's more of a cleaner I suppose... I have been using a different one... Some foaming stuff, and I am not pleased.

When I do clean, a mild dish soap is used after letting the other stuff work for 5 minutes.

Thoughts?

Degreaser flushes out the lubricant in between chain pin and roller. It takes a few lubrications to get that internal area recoated. Also, the degreaser tends to go through the cassettes and into the freewheel mechanism, eventually degreasing the internals. If the mechanism does not work smoothly, it can jam up. Then you maybe looking at a new rear wheel. I find it is best to ONLY use the chain lube and a rag to clean up any excess lube. Now and again I take the rear wheel out, and slide a rag between the cassettes.

My routine only takes 5-10 minutes. Been doing it for years, so I got the routine down to pat. Sometimes, I might forget to do it before the morning's ride. Then I do it in a rush, before I leave home. Can do a short version in 3 minutes (Check tires, wipe down chain (no re-lube, unless I rode in the rain), and pump tires to max pressure). I do all this with the bike upside down. Made a small stand for the handlebars. Will show photo later.

 

[mjrhealth]

Degreaser flushes out the lubricant in between chain pin and roller. It takes a few lubrications to get that internal area recoated. Also, the degreaser tends to go through the cassettes and into the freewheel mechanism, eventually degreasing the internals. If the mechanism does not work smoothly, it can jam up. Then you maybe looking at a new rear wheel. I find it is best to ONLY use the chain lube and a rag to clean up any excess lube. Now and again I take the rear wheel out, and slide a rag between the cassettes.

My routine only takes 5-10 minutes. Been doing it for years, so I got the routine down to pat. Sometimes, I might forget to do it before the morning's ride. Then I do it in a rush, before I leave home. Can do a short version in 3 minutes (Check tires, wipe down chain (no re-lube, unless I rode in the rain), and pump tires to max pressure). I do all this with the bike upside down. Made a small stand for the handlebars. Will show photo later.

Bike got a bit wet last weekend checked it this morning already had signs of rust on chain, clean wd40 re oiled went for nice short hill climb all good.

 

[Invisibilis]

Bike got a bit wet last weekend checked it this morning already had signs of rust on chain, clean wd40 re oiled went for nice short hill climb all good.

'Oh dear!'
Just letting you know that WD40 is a degreaser. The signs of rust so soon after a bit of rain points to no lubricant on that part of the chain, let alone what got flushed out between chain link pins and sleeves. There are many types of chain lube for cyclists found at bike shops.

I once use light lanolin and that worked okay, but it dries over time and becomes thicker and the chain does not flow so easily.
Oil and grease, if thicker than a film, will hold any sand or grit that might get flung onto the chain, then it gets grinded into the gears, wearing both chain and gears. Some bike chain lubricants are waxed based, they are also good.

The important thing for me is to not use a degreaser, lubricate and wipe down chain before each ride.

 

[mjrhealth]

'Oh dear!'
Just letting you know that WD40 is a degreaser. The signs of rust so soon after a bit of rain points to no lubricant on that part of the chain, let alone what got flushed out between chain link pins and sleeves. There are many types of chain lube for cyclists found at bike shops.

I once use light lanolin and that worked okay, but it dries over time and becomes thicker and the chain does not flow so easily.
Oil and grease, if thicker than a film, will hold any sand or grit that might get flung onto the chain, then it gets grinded into the gears, wearing both chain and gears. Some bike chain lubricants are waxed based, they are also good.

The important thing for me is to not use a degreaser, lubricate and wipe down chain before each ride.

Ye know that use it to clean, have proper chain oil. Apparently they are talking about using wax now..

 

[FHII]

'Oh dear!'
Just letting you know that WD40 is a degreaser. The signs of rust so soon after a bit of rain points to no lubricant on that part of the chain, let alone what got flushed out between chain link pins and sleeves. There are many types of chain lube for cyclists found at bike shops.

I once use light lanolin and that worked okay, but it dries over time and becomes thicker and the chain does not flow so easily.
Oil and grease, if thicker than a film, will hold any sand or grit that might get flung onto the chain, then it gets grinded into the gears, wearing both chain and gears. Some bike chain lubricants are waxed based, they are also good.

The important thing for me is to not use a degreaser, lubricate and wipe down chain before each ride.

My mechanic at my bike shop warns against using WD40 also. He prefers warm soapy water. I suppose using it on your chain isn't the worst thing as long as you completely wipe it away, but you'll definitely want to keep it away from your derailers, hub and crankset. Overall I prefer not to use it.

 

[mjrhealth]

My mechanic at my bike shop warns against using WD40 also. He prefers warm soapy water. I suppose using it on your chain isn't the worst thing as long as you completely wipe it away, but you'll definitely want to keep it away from your derailers, hub and crankset. Overall I prefer not to use it.

Its simple, just spray it onto a rag hold the rag around thr chain and turn gets most the grime off. Certainly dont spray it around dont want it on discs.

 

[Invisibilis]

My mechanic at my bike shop warns against using WD40 also. He prefers warm soapy water. I suppose using it on your chain isn't the worst thing as long as you completely wipe it away, but you'll definitely want to keep it away from your derailers, hub and crankset. Overall I prefer not to use it.

Each to their own. My chain only gets touched by a cycling chain lube and a rag.
The only time a degreaser touches my bike is to get rid of any bitumen that may get splashed onto the frame.

 

[Invisibilis]

Cleaning my bike.

 

[Willie T]

I dig bikes. I raced at Sebring twice. Never got to Daytona.